A rancho siesta for the soul
By Roberto Chocolate, The Traveling Detective
The people of Panama’s Chiriqui province are fiercely proud of their region, and rightfully so. Located in western Panama, it is without doubt one of the most beautiful areas of the country.
The mountains begin to appear almost as soon as you drive west past Penonome in Cocle province. By the time you reach Vulcan, the mountains dominate the landscape.
I traveled with two friends to Rancho de Caldera, a small eco-lodge on the Caldera river. The dream project of an American woman, Virginia (Gina) Cronin, Rancho de Caldera is completely off the grid, powered by wind, solar and hydro-electricity generated from one of the property’s five waterfalls. Rancho de Caldera is a state of the art, spoil-you-rotten eco-lodge with bedside iPod stations, massage chairs, and large private balconies overlooking the spectacular valley below.
Her sights set on complete self sufficiency, Virginia raises horses, lambs and cows and plans on expanding her menagerie to include chickens and goats, and she has planted a vegetable garden and fruit trees on the property.
We were greeted by two extremely personable labs, who accompanied us on an introductory tour, highlighted by an infinity pool overlooking the spectacular vista.
Our rooms were built into the cliff’s side, with breathtaking valley views. We had a connected suite with King size beds, flat screen TVs, a fully equipped kitchen with gas range, full-sized stainless steel fridge, oven, microwave, and everything the discerning cook might require on an extended stay. Japanese shoji screens separate the kitchen and other areas of the suite.
Rancho de Caldera’s restaurant, Madre Tierra, features an open-kitchen and a dining room with panoramic views.
Chef Craig Miller provides a lively narrative as he prepares our meal in full view, as we sip our incredible watermelon, lime, honey and cinnamon refreshment.
Madre Tierra is alcohol and soda pop free. You can order a bottle of wine for your room, but as the restaurant was conceived as a place of health and nurturing, it does not serve alcohol.
As beautiful as Rancho de Caldera’s setting and amenities may be, it is its food that elevates it above every other resort I have visited in the country. My companions declared Chef Craig’s four-course meal the best they have had in Panama.
The next morning, we greeted the dawn on my balcony, a freshly brewed mug of coffee in hand. The mountains to the north frame the perfect sunrise. Soft, misty-white clouds hang between distant rows of hills. Birds sing, squawk and screech. A lone rooster crows at his appointed time.
Rancho de Caldera is a dream come true.
This is a place to get in touch with nature, to confer with your spiritual center, to ponder life-changing decisions.
The bottle of Chardonnay I put on ice after dinner the night before, floats untouched this morning in its ice bucket — a highly personal testament to the transformative powers of this enchanting setting.
Rancho de Calder’s slogan is a siesta for your soul.
I concur, heart and soul.
To get there:
52 km north off the InterAmerican – turn at the town of Chiriqui (11 km before David) Full directions are provided on the website: www.ranchodecaldera.com
Rates: Officially $160 - $220/ night - but tell Gina that Roberto Chocolaté sent you and she will give you a great deal. Gina also honors the jubilado discount.
Conference facilities available, group discounts. Small weddings are a specialty.(Alcohol is permitted when booking the entire resort.)
Contact: Reservations: (507) 6604- 9028 Hotel: (507) 772- 8040 Cell: 6612- 2147
E-Mail:
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